Ferry Ride to Sihanoukville

The return ferry ride was much better than the one out to the island of Koh Rong, but it was still rough and I noticed a few people had their ‘collection bags’ ready just in case. Andre had taken a motion sickness pill this time so he had an easier go of it. We also happened to pick good seats. About ten minutes into our ride the ceiling in the row beside us started leaking profusely. I was really looking forward to some land travel. 

Get the Big Bus!

If I had known what I was in for I would not have been excited about the land travel portion of our journey either. A couple had approached us on the ferry to see if we wanted to share a cab to Kampot, but we had already booked the mini bus. We knew we should have waited because this situation commonly arises. We could have just forfeited our bus tickets but we decided to stick with our original plan.

When the “mini bus” arrived I realized that in Cambodia this is just a term used for a van. A very regular sized van that would comfortably transport eleven adults. This jalopy was fitted with an extra row of seating so that 3 additional people could be packed in. Not to mention all the luggage that was stacked between the front seats and the rear of the vehicle. The temperature was a cool 35 humid degree, feeling like 39, the air conditioning was non-existent, and you couldn’t open the windows because of the air quality and debris from construction. We were initially seated in the back row with a bench of seating practically reclined in our laps. As people started piling in I flipped out. This photo sums up how I felt. I bolted up to escape as everyone was getting on.

Andre explained my claustrophobia and physically moved me to the seat nearest the sliding door. It was the best seat on the bus but I was still barely able to contain myself. I thought about jumping out a few times and then recalled that I had Ativan in my bag for emergencies. This was an emergency. I popped one and started to read in order to distract myself. I got through the three hour drive. Thank you drugs. From now on I want the big bus.

Fish Island Bulgalows

I was still feeling very relaxed from the Ativan when we arrived at Fish Island Bungalows. Our room was very pretty and rustic. My only concern was that the room was not sealed off from mosquitoes. The bed had netting but the entire perimeter of the roof was open and the venting in the bathroom was also unscreened. I could already see the predators floating around me so we asked Mr. Leng if he had any other rooms available. I could make due but my lounging would likely be restricted to the bed for my own safety. Mr. Leng put us into another room that was well sealed and had air conditioning for no additional charge. For 25 US dollars we had a lovely room, air conditioning, mini fridge, kettle, hot shower, and a porch to hang a hammock.

Fish Island Bungalows is located just outside the busy part of Kampot in the local village. Mr. Leng was an incredible host and provided rides to the center for all of his guests at any time. A return tuk tuk was only two dollars. He also did free tours of Fish Island every evening at 5pm. This was the highlight of this place for us. We loved the tour so much we did it twice. But I’ll get back to that later.

Mr. Leng and his family were so warm and welcoming. It was wonderful to get to know him and his wife during our stay and I also got a new best buddy, his 5 year old son. He loved to draw and one evening we went through a range of Halloween themed pictures. Zombies, spiders, mummies, vampires, ghosts, skeletons, and on and on. He knew all the English names for them. Mr. Leng laughed and told us that he always used the back pages of his ledger books to draw. He loved to play and draw with me but he also really liked Andre. He told his father that Andre looked like a film star. Mr. Leng showed us a photo of an Indian movie star and Andre burst into laughter. I couldn’t help myself. The next day Andre and I went out and picked him up a package of blank paper, pencil crayons, sharpener, ruler, and a pencil case. 

Mr. Leng said that his son was waking up early each morning asking if we were awake yet. Then he would come by early to check our room refardless, but usually only found Andre in the hammock. Except for one morning. I had woken up at 4am and randomly looked at my phone. I had some messages so I read them. One message made my blood boil. The details are not important, but let’s just say that if anyone treats my friends or family poorly I see red. The message was nothing new, but made me wish that I still worked with people who knew people who wouldn’t mind breaking someone’s legs. Then I thought that that is a terrible thing to think even if someone is an ungrateful greedy piece of trash. Karma will sort them out and I should be a better person and it’s not worth stewing about etc, etc. But I was too awake after thinking about all the things I’d like to say to said individual. So I went out to relax in the hammock and watch the sun rise. Shortly after the sun came up a small head peeked through the railing. I told him to come sit down and went to get the art supplies.

As I brought them out his eyes lit up. I don’t think he understood that they were for him. I think he thought that this lady sure liked to draw and carried art supplies in her backpack. We sat together and drew for four hours. It was the best way to spend my morning after being so upset earlier in the day. As we were leaving for lunch I asked him if he would like to take the supplies home (next door). I tried to explain again that the supplies were for him and this time he seemed to understand. He had the biggest smile on his face as he stacked up his goods and carefully carried the pile away.

Anyway, as I was saying before, it was fantastic to sit with Mr. Leng and hear about his life. He told us about his childhood, how he met Mrs. Leng, and the variety of jobs he had prior to running his own business. There were many. In high school he would wake up each morning at 4am to go purchase ice which he would then sell to vendors until around 6am. After this he would get ready and go to school. After school he would go back and collect payment from each vendor (once they had made their money) and take their orders for the following day. Later on some of his other jobs included working for a NGO, making gold jewellery, and using his English skills to help translate new techniques and medicines to a long time practicing veterinarian. He built up his business, starting with two bungalows just a few years ago and now there are twelve.

He was such an amazing host. I can’t say enough great things about him and his family. They care so much about their guests. The day after check in we met a young girl who was staying there and found out that her partner had just gotten Dengue Fever. Mr. Leng had driven them to the hospital and stayed with them there until they diagnosed him. Afterward Mr. Leng made him special teas and soups each day. We only saw him on our final day when he had gathered enough strength to get out of bed. He had been out of commission for a week. His girlfriend said that she was the one that always got bitten by mosquitoes and that he only had about four bites. It’s just the luck of the draw. Very happy we moved rooms.

Fish Island Tour (Koh Trey)

This was absolutely our favorite thing to do! We went with Mr. Leng on our second evening, joined by two guests from China, and on our fifth and final night with a group of four ladies. The first time we were in his tuk tuk and on the last night we followed the group on a motorbike. The colours in the sky and the beams of light shining through the fields were incredible. The red earth reminded me of the outback. As we drove past homes children would run out and wave, yelling hello. The scenery was stunning and the energy was something I can’t describe. It was incredibly serene.

Our first stop was a local fishing spot and as we pulled up a game of hacky sack was going on. Andre and the guys joined in. The game is a bit different in Cambodia with the sack being a shuttle. Also not so easy in flip flops! Even a local kid lost a flop at one point. Old man Banks was frustrated that he had lost his hacky skills.

Then we stopped by a swallow house. You will see the building in the video. Bird’s nests, which are made of saliva, have a long history of medicinal use in China and Vietnam and are a lucrative business. Traditionally they have been used to make “bird’s nest soup”, and are now also found in cosmetic products. Mr. Leng told us that bird’s nests fetch one thousand US dollars per kilo. A few years ago it was up to two thousand dollars per kilo.

The second time we toured we continued down the road from the swallow house to check out a human house. Someone in the community had just completed their new home, and as per tradition they were having a big party to celebrate. As we approached we saw a huge tent had been set up and the strobe lights and music were already going. Mr. Leng would later attend the party. He told us the next day that there were about 500 people at the catered event. He said that everyone brings some money to offset the costs. Andre and I were shocked at the amount of people and when Mr. Leng saw our faces he just laughed and told us that at his wedding there were 700 guests!

We carried on past the salt fields. Salt yields only fifteen cents per kilo. On the drive we also passed many water buffalo enjoying time in the muddy waters along the road. The sky was reflected beautifully in the water as we headed toward the mangroves. On our second trip Mr. Leng took us walking out into the ankle deep water. When first getting in, the mud oozed between our toes and slid right off with each step. After a few feet it became more solid and silty.

Here are a few of the highlights. I loved every moment so getting down to fifteen minutes was a challenge.

 

After we got home from the second trip we realized we were much filthier than we had been the first trip in the tuk tuk. I walked into the bathroom to see a definite outline of red earth around the place my sunglasses had been. The shower ran red. It really was like going through the outback.

Food and Tipping

The local food was really quite nice but I will admit I prefer the Thai curries to the Khmer. One unique restaurant option we saw frequently was “happy pizza” and “happy shakes”. It’s exactly what you’re thinking it is. Although it is illegal here it is openly advertised everywhere. We did some reading and met some people who had tried “happy” items. The reviews were mixed, but there were a lot of stories of people who had really bad experiences that lasted 12 hours or more. I’ll stick to red wine thanks.

Tipping never used to be at a thing in Cambodia but it is now. We always look these types of thing up on arrival or ask locals. Tipping is not expected here but for servers and cleaning staff who make very little it can make a huge difference in their lives. To give some prospective I’ll tell you about the cleaner at our bungalows. She was 18 years old and was the daughter of a single mother. She needed to work to help the family, so after she finished grade 12 she started cleaning. She works at least 6 days a week and usually chooses to work Sunday as well because the pay is higher. All days except Sunday she makes 5 dollars a day.

It really is a reality check when you’re in a place where someone’s daily wage is someone’s coffee money back home. We looked up the cost of higher education and learned that a bachelor’s degree costs around four thousand USD. So basically for just over eleven thousand dollars you could pay someone their yearly salary for four years and put them through school.

Adventure Day

Mr. Leng also had free bicycles and motorbikes that you could rent for five dollars a day. We decided to rent a bike and go to check out the waterfalls up in Bokor Mountain. The road up the mountain was nice and smooth, it was just getting there from town on the big main road that was a bit off putting. Lots of big vehicles, bikes and tuk tuks all over the place with intersections being completely erratic.

I would say the waterfalls were just okay. I’m sure in the wet season they are way better. I would say it was a long ride just for the falls. The highlights for me were two things that we hadn’t anticipated. Isn’t that always the way? The first was a giant Buddha and the other was a monkey sighting.

 

I loved everything about Kampot. The Cambodian people are even more friendly than the Thai. It actually felt like leaving our family watching Mr. and Mrs. Leng and the staff waiving to us from the drive as we rode off in our taxi. Waiving to us like my mother would, until we were completely out of sight.

145 days in…

Taking a taxi to Siem Reap!